A holistic approach to vegan plates

Veganism is a cuisine, not a lifestyle, says Johnny Curet, director of campus dining at Rice University in Houston. With that goal top of toque, he and his culinary team focus on creating completely plant-based entrees, giving equal attention to center-of-the-plate proteins and sides. “When we’re developing a vegan recipe, we ask ourselves, ‘If this was chicken with rice and broccoli, what would we use to build flavor?’ and then apply the same techniques and presentation, making sure all the ingredients are appropriate for vegans,” says Curet.

Rice’s community dining system means everyone eats together—kosher, halal, vegan and more are not in separate dining halls. “We have to challenge ourselves to create dishes that are vegan-friendly but appeal to everyone, offering much more than a plate of steamed vegetables,” says Curet. This risotto dish, which swaps salmon with tofu, has become a favorite among vegans and meat eaters alike. 

For the vegan risotto, Curet marinates slices of firm tofu in the same mix of olive oil, lime juice, white wine, shallots and fresh tarragon used for salmon fillets. The flavor-infused tofu is then cooked in a char-broiler to create distinct grill marks for a “meaty” appearance. 

To replicate the richness of beurre blanc, made with butter and cream, sans dairy products, Curet combines coconut milk, olive oil and vegan margarine, using the same technique of slowly incorporating the fat into the liquid to form an emulsion.

In this recipe, Curet poaches fennel and uses the liquid to cook the rice. He then purees a portion of the roasted squash to stir into the mixture instead of butter and cheese. “The puree gives the risotto a creamy texture so you don’t even miss the butter and cheese,” he says. “It’s much healthier, too.”