Spain and Portugal share the river Tagus, miles of coastlines and melting pots filled with ancient food traditions.
To lump the cuisines of Spain and Portugal into one pot would be like saying there’s not much difference between the food and cooking styles of Germany and France. Yet Portugal and Spain’s food cultures share influences from around the globe.
Both countries sent explorers east to India to import spices, and west to the New World to bring back what they could find. As a result, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, coriander and other spices were shipped from the Far East, while tomatoes, corn, peppers, potatoes and pineapple made their way from the Americas to the western shores of Europe.
All those flavors and textures have been added to the mix of indigenous plants, fish and animals found in Iberia, including saffron, one of the most expensive spices, grown only in Spain and a must in some authentic recipes. Other influences on these cuisines have come over the centuries from Romans (who brought olives, citrus and grapes), Arabs (almonds and rice) and tradesmen from Mediterranean ports.
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How you put them together: The most basic ingredients include eggs, beans, rice, cheese, pork, beef, seafood and a wide range of vegetables. Although the list sounds like a lot of other cuisines, it’s what the Spanish and Portuguese do with those ingredients that elevate them with distinct flavors and combinations.
Meats, for example, are cured in various ways in different regions of the two countries and have a variety of uses. Meat is not the main attraction in Iberian meals that it tends to be here. Rather, it is used in small amounts to add flavor to plant-based dishes.
—Chorizo (Spanish) or chouriço (Portuguese) is a pork sausage flavored with paprika that is smoked, often over hickory. The sausage is a flavorful ingredient in egg or bean dishes, soups, casseroles and sandwiches.
—Jamón serrano (mountain ham) from Spain and presunto from Portugal are air-dried, salted hams that aren’t smoked and don’t need to be cooked. The most coveted Iberian hams are made from black pigs fed on acorns, but there are other grades that cost a bit less. Use thin slices of ham in sandwiches, on tapas or cheese plates, or shaved over hot pasta or pizza.
—Carne seca is a jerky-style cured beef flavored with oregano, vinegar, onions and garlic. It traditionally is sun-dried. The cured beef adds flavor and texture to bean or vegetable soups and can be a nice chewy addition to green salads.
The deep blue sea: Because of the thousands of miles of coastlines in the two countries, fish and seafood are very important parts of the cuisines. Fresh sardines and salted cod are two types of fish that are mainstays there but not so common here. Skirting the lesser-known and capitalizing on popular fish entrées, easily translated traditional Iberian fish dishes include:
—Portuguese Fisherman’s Stew: Mussels, clams, cod and sausage float in a white wine-flavored fish broth with tomatoes, onions, leeks and garlic.
—Fried Fish Marinated in Vinegar: As the name implies, fish fillets are marinated in vinegar spiced with garlic, oregano, thyme and cumin, then breaded and pan-fried.
—Paella: All versions include rice flavored with saffron, paprika and other spices mixed with any combination of chicken, sausage and seafood such as clams, shrimp, mussels and firm white fish plus sausage and/or chicken. Vegetarian versions are made with artichokes, peppers, summer squash, tomatoes, white beans and green peas. (Rice is a staple in Spain and Portugal. The Portuguese eat more rice than any other European country.)
—Peasant Soup: Sometimes, the humblest ingredients can come together to make a masterpiece, and in Spain and Portugal, flavorful, nutritious soups can be crafted from such ingredients as bits of fish, cabbage, potatoes, beans and sometimes bread.
Just a bite or two: In recent years, Spanish tapas have made the scene in the U.S., sparking the “small plate” phenomenon in all types of foodservice. There are hundreds of tapas recipes, and many can be adapted to serve on salad bars or as sides for sandwiches or other center-of-the-plate dishes and of course, for hors d’oeuvres.
Get your tapas juices flowing with some of these classics:
—Spanish tortillas made with layers of sliced potatoes, cheese and eggs browned in olive oil to serve hot or at room temperature. Optional additions include cooked bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers, garlic and onions.
—Warm grilled sausages served with chilled tomato-basil salad.
—Grilled eggplant spears marinated in mint-garlic vinaigrette.
—Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies or garlic cloves.
—Rice cakes stuffed with manchego cheese and sautéed in olive oil until the cheese melts and the crisp.
—Grilled shrimp wrapped in thin slices of Spanish ham.
—Pan-fried salmon cakes with chopped olives, onion, garlic and parsley with a garlic-paprika aioli.
—Fresh mushrooms sautéed with garlic in olive oil over dry toasts.
—Spanish-style potato salad tossed with diced carrots, red bell peppers, green peas, gherkins, capers, stuffed olives and a vinaigrette made with sherry vinegar and just a hint of anchovy.
—Firm cheese, breaded and deep fried or pan-fried, with a spicy tomato-based sauce.
—Clams or mussels steamed and drizzled with olive oil and garlic.
—Orange and red onion salad sprinkled with golden raisins and black olives, tossed with raspberry vinaigrette.
Sweetest endings: If there’s a classic Iberian dessert, it has to be the traditional flan. The typical version is a standard custard baked in caramelized sugar, but creative versions can include coconut milk, citrus, berries, even chocolate.
Stick with other traditions that include a platter of ripe fruit, salty cheeses and nuts; ice creams, such as almond, cinnamon or peach; a dense orange cake doused with orange-flower syrup; slices of peeled oranges, drizzled with honey and sprinkled with cinnamon (surely an idea borrowed from the Persians) and rich rice pudding with cinnamon and raisins.