Judging from the popularity of food blogs and chef shows, most people outside the industry likely believe that food trends originate in fancy restaurants kitchens. And many do. Few would deny Dominique Ansel, owner of Dominique Ansel Bakery in New York City, his due as father of the Cronut craze, for example. But what many people may not realize (or are less apt to acknowledge) is the number of trends that either get their start or gain a foothold inside noncommercial kitchens.
The issue of food recovery has been a reality for foodservice operators for a while now. And when it comes to best practices, many in the industry look to noncommercial. Last fall, when the Environmental Protection Agency named the winners of its 2014 Food Recovery Challenge, a number of universities, hospitals and stadiums were among the winners, including the University of California, Irvine. While it may be impossible to truly decide who gets credit as the biggest champion, the fact is that food recovery—through means such as food donation, smarter sourcing and handling and consumer education—is a part of everyday operation for many noncommercials.
“Zero-waste” is the hot term these days, and my own daily newsfeed is regularly filled with reports of yet another college or university using peer pressure for good by getting students to help divert food waste from landfills. The Wall Street Journal reported in April that more than 200 U.S. colleges were stocking food pantries to feed students in need in the wake of rising tuition costs and at the same time reducing waste.
Now the issue is generating buzz as restaurants tout their own related efforts, and the consumer food media takes notice. In the October issue, we share the results of a collaboration between chef-restaurateur and farm-to-table advocate Dan Barber and restaurant chain Sweetgreen. Its wastED salad, on the menu for a limited time this summer, was inspired by Barber’s pop-up restaurant of the same name, which transformed food scraps and fish bones into haute cuisine.
Another enterprising foodie, former Trader Joe’s exec Doug Rauch, got a lot of attention this summer when he opened Daily Table, a new kind of grocery store that sells safe food that’s just past its “sell-by” date, located in Boston’s economically challenged Dorchester neighborhood.
Advocates of food recovery—be they on the noncommercial or restaurant side of the business—aren’t looking for credit, of course. Their efforts most often are fueled by a genuine interest in doing what’s right. And for that, they all deserve a pat on the back.